jakichś paskudnych wądołów. Czasem z<br />konieczności zawracam i szukam nowego przejazdu. To piekło<br />Bahar-es-szejtan, po arabsku Morze Diabła, gibli z jego szaleńczymi<br />porywami mija po trzech dniach.<br />Docieramy do fortu Koro-Toro. Zaproszeni przez dowódcę rozkoszujemy się<br />chłodem wewnątrz murów. Podczas obiadu usługuje, nie, to nieodpowiednie<br />określenie &#8212; po prostu dyskretnie celebruje przy posiłku żona komendanta<br />fortu. Piękna, wysoka, o królewskich ruchach, czarna dziewczyna. Mąż,<br />widząc nasze pełne zachwytu spojrzenia i domyślając się rzucanych<br />półgębkiem uwag, z dumą oświadcza, że żonę sprowadził aż z plemienia<br />Tussi, znad jeziora Kiwu (Ruanda Urundi). Posterunek mieści się w wielkim,<br />pomalowanym na biało forcie. Czworobok paro-metrowych murów wyrastających<br />z piasku, otoczony wypełniającym go stopniowo, wzgórzem piasku. Na nim<br />zespolone ściśle z murami, wyciętymi w blanki i strzelnice, wieńczą go<br />zabudowania połączone w jeden labirynt z kwadratowym dziedzińcem. Tu<br />mieszczą się izby zajmowane przez komendanta, sala rozpraw i przyjęć,<br />pokoje gościnne, koszary (przez cały dzień zobaczyłem 2 żołnierzy &#8212; byłoby<br />nietaktem pytać komendanta o &#8222;stan załogi", ale przypuszczam, że nie<br />przerastał on o 25% tego, co widzieliśmy), dalej magazyny, kuchnia i<br />więzienie, od którego klucza jeden z żołnierzy bezowocnie poszukiwał już<br />od dwóch godzin, a aresztowany w tym czasie siedział sobie przed fortem na<br />wydmie razem z rodziną, aż wściekły na niezdarnego żołnierza komendant<br />kazał mu się wynosić do Szejtana. Od frontu bastionu &#8212; parę chałupek 20<br />stałych mieszkańców osady, studnia obudowana dachem i ścianami, a gdzieś<br />tam dalej o 705 km (tak wynika z obliczeń) Fort Lamy. Reszta to piasek. Z<br />lewej strony piaski, z prawej, tuż pod murem dwa kolczaste drzewka i znów<br />piasek aż do horyzontu, z tyłu... piasek... piasek... aż do Morza<br />Śródziemnego, te drobne 3050 km. To wszystko nakryte czapą słonecznych<br />promyków tak grzejących, że śmierć w lodówce wydaje się rozkosznym zgonem.<br />Tak wygląda egzotyczny fort. Obrazu dopełnia daleki, jękliwy ton<br />przesypywanych wiatrem piasków. Najbliższą okolicę wiatry omijają przez<br />większą część doby, co mogło być jedną z przyczyn obrania miejsca na<br />budowę fortu. Jest to też miejsce z wodą i kończą się tu wielkie,<br />wędrujące wydmy, a zaczyna równina, lekko pofałdowana, przechodząca w<br />pustynną sawannę.<br />W Koro-Toro, prócz miłych wspomnień, pozostawiłem lub, być może,<br />&#8222;pozostawiono mi" telek, mały sztylet, otrzymany w prezencie od jednego z<br />poznanych nomadów w Tibesti. Taki sztylet na skórzanej opasce, prostej lub<br />splatanej, noszą mężczyźni na lewym przedramieniu. Miałem go w kabinie<br />obok siedzenia. Mógł sam wypaść w czasie wysiadania na trasie lub po<br />prostu zniknął, gdy STAR stał cały dzień przed fortem. Był to jedyny<br />niejasny przypadek w okresie całej wyprawy.<br />Żegnani przez gościnnego komendanta, jego żonę i małego synka, robimy<br />gospodarzom zdjęcia. Ruszamy, obdarowani na drogę wielkim udźcem, lekko<br />podwędzonym, jakiegoś zwierzaka oraz pieczątką w dzienniku ekspedycji: &#8222;l<br />Regiment du Tchad Koro-Toro &#8212; Chef de Poste". Z informacją, że czasami z<br />Fort Lamy, raz lub dwa razy w miesiącu, przyjeżdża tu samochód, zanurzamy<br />się w piaski. Przez Faya Largeau do Fort Lamy stolicy Czadu. Tam skończy<br />się pustynia. Przejechaliśmy podobno najtrudniejsze odcinki,<br />przejechaliśmy je bez jakiejkolwiek awarii samochodu. Jestem mu za to<br />wdzięzny. Człowiek i maszyna dotarli tam, gdzie jeszcze są pierwotne ślady<br />człowieka i narzędzia. Samochód, to współczesne narzędzie na co dzień<br />człowieka 20 wieku, pomagał odnajdywać ślady naszych praprzodków.<br />Pomimo że przebyłem całą trasę bez jakiejkolwiek awarii, drugi raz, ze<br />względu na ryzykowne warunki, nie zdecydowałbym się na jazdę taką trasą<br />tylko jednym samochodem. Chyba że przebiegałaby ona przez... pustynię<br />Kalahari.<br /><br />Dobieslaw Walknowski<br />----------------------------------------------<br />Mgr Dobieslaw Walknowski, projektant form przemysłowych, podróżnik i<br />etnograf, w latach 1963&#8212;1970 brał udział w odległych wyprawach<br />podejmowanych na polskich samochodach ciężarowych &#8222;Star-25" i &#8222;Star-66".<br />Przemierzał w nich jako uczestnik ekspedycji paleontologicznych PAN<br />bezdroża Mongolii (1963, 1964, 1965), jako uczestnik ekspedycji Klubu<br />Wysokogórskiego w Hindukusz &#8212; góry Afganistanu (1966), jako kierownik<br />polsko-węgierskiej wyprawy badawczej &#8212; bezludne obszary Afryki (1967) i<br />wreszcie jako kierownik zorganizowanej przez &#8222;Polmot" podróży<br />akwizycyjno-doświadczalnej &#8212; kraje Bliskiego Wschodu oraz Środkowej i<br />Południowej Azji (1970).<br />Obok zamieszczamy spisane specjalnie dla Czytelników &#8222;M.T." jego wrażenia<br />z najtrudniejszej próby, którą i dla człowieka, i dla maszyny było<br />pokonanie Sahary</td>
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Strona  230 z&nbsp;720: <a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=0'>1</a>...<a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2260'>227</a><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2270'>228</a><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2280'>229</a><span><strong>230</strong></span><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2300'>231</a><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2310'>232</a><a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2320'>233</a>...<a href='articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=7190'>720</a>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2290#c174458' id='c174458' name='c174458'>#2291</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>&amp;#52852;&amp;#51648;&amp;#45432;&amp;#48197;&a</span>
<span class='small'>dnia czerwiec 16 2024 06:57:08</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2290#c174671' id='c174671' name='c174671'>#2292</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>reja sahputra</span>
<span class='small'>dnia czerwiec 19 2024 22:01:05</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2290#c174702' id='c174702' name='c174702'>#2293</a> |
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<span class='small'>dnia czerwiec 20 2024 10:54:23</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2290#c174895' id='c174895' name='c174895'>#2294</a> |
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<span class='small'>dnia czerwiec 23 2024 12:16:54</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2290#c174913' id='c174913' name='c174913'>#2295</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>redgergaming</span>
<span class='small'>dnia czerwiec 23 2024 21:43:39</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2290#c174998' id='c174998' name='c174998'>#2296</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>bilis</span>
<span class='small'>dnia czerwiec 25 2024 03:39:19</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2290#c175024' id='c175024' name='c175024'>#2297</a> |
<span class='comment-name'>John</span>
<span class='small'>dnia czerwiec 25 2024 11:56:29</span>
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<a href='/articles.php?article_id=15&amp;c_start=2290#c175073' id='c175073' name='c175073'>#2298</a> |
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<span class='comment-name'>John</span>
<span class='small'>dnia czerwiec 27 2024 20:25:32</span>
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&lt;a href=&quot;https://gadgets-4-all.com/product/atomos-ninja-v-5-hdmi-recording-monitor-with-atomx-cast-switcher-bundle/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;atomos-ninja-v-5-hdmi-recording-monitor-with-atomx-cast-switcher-bundle&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://gadgets-4-all.com/product/bw-high-transmission-mrc-nano-master-circular-polarizer-filter-82mm/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;bw-high-transmission-mrc-nano-master-circular-polarizer-filter-82mm&lt;/a&gt;<br />
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&lt;a href=&quot;https://gadgets-4-all.com/product/godox-v1-flash-for-canon/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;godox-v1-flash-for-canon&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://gadgets-4-all.com/product/rode-videomic-ntg-hybrid-analogusb-camera-mount-shotgun-microphone/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;rode-videomic-ntg-hybrid-analogusb-camera-mount-shotgun-microphone&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://gadgets-4-all.com/product/rode-videomic-pro-camera-mount-shotgun-microphone/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;rode-videomic-pro-camera-mount-shotgun-microphone&lt;/a&gt;<br />
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&lt;a href=&quot;https://mycopharma.store/product/wegovy-uk/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;wegovy-uk&lt;/a&gt;<br />
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&lt;a href=&quot;https://mycopharma.store/product/ambien-uk/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;ambien-uk&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://mycopharma.store/product/rohypnol-uk-for-sale-1-2-mg/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;rohypnol-uk-for-sale-1-2-mg&lt;/a&gt;<br />
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&lt;a href=&quot;https://ritalinuk.com/product/buy-ritalin-uk/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;buy-ritalin-uk&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://ritalinuk.com/product/ritalin-uk/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;ritalin uk&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://ritalinuk.com/product/ritalin-adhd/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;ritalin adhd&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://ritalinuk.com/product/concerta-medication/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;concerta-medication&lt;/a&gt;<br />
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&lt;a href=&quot;https://ausmedscenter.com/product/wegovy-australia/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;wegovy-australia&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://ausmedscenter.com/product/endone/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;endone&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://ausmedscenter.com/product/wegovy-australia-cost/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;wegovy-australia-cost&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://ausmedscenter.com/product/ozempic-australia/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;ozempic-australia&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://ausmedscenter.com/product-category/weight-loss-medication-australia/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;weight-loss-medication-australia&lt;/a&gt;<br />
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&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchworld.shop/product/weed-torch/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;weed-torch&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchworld.shop/product/torch-world/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;torch-world&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchworld.shop/product/torchiez-weed/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;torchiez-weed&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchworld.shop/product/torchiez/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;torchiez&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchworld.shop/product/torch-world-weed/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;torch-world-weed&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchworld.shop/product/sprinklez-weed/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;sprinklez-weed&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchworld.shop/product/sprinkles-weed/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;sprinkles-weed&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchvapes.store/product/torch-disposable/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;torch-disposable&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchvapes.store/product/torch-cart-vape/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;torch-cart-vape&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchvapes.store/product/torch-vape-pen/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;torch-vape-pen&lt;/a&gt;<br />
&lt;a href=&quot;https://torchvapes.store/product/torch-disposable-vape/&quot; rel=&quot;dofollow&quot;&gt;torch-disposable-vape&lt;/a&gt;</div>
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